I have looked at a number of other posts, and nothing seems to match. I don't have nux-tools installed or the /etc/X11/Xsession.d/50_check_unity_support file present. LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE is set to 1 at startup; simply unsetting it does not help.
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$ glxinfo | grep OpenGL
OpenGL vendor string: VMware, Inc.
OpenGL renderer string: llvmpipe (LLVM 8.0, 128 bits)
$ echo $LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE
1